Classic sealer failure: lifting in sheets from trapped oil or moisture and over-application

Quick Answer: Why Your Sealer Is Peeling

• Trapped moisture under the coating (applied to damp concrete/asphalt or high humidity).
• Poor surface prep: dust, dirt, oil/grease stains, or old loose sealer left on.
• Incompatible layers: switching from coal tar to acrylic, water-based over solvent, etc.
• Over-application: thick coats or too many coats prevent proper curing.
• Wrong conditions: too cold/hot/wet; no cure time before traffic or rain.

Diagnose the Real Cause in 5 Steps

1. Location of failure: edges and low spots = moisture; wheel paths = early traffic; random sheets = oil/old sealer.
2. Peel test: if it lifts in sheets, bonding failed (contamination or incompatible coat). Powdery flake = UV/oxidation of old coat.
3. Water test: sprinkle water. Beading indicates oil/contaminant still present.
4. Scratch test: soft/tacky after days = applied too thick or too cold/humid to cure.
5. Layer history: note prior product type. Mixing types often causes inter-coat failure.

Fix It Right (Permanent Method)

Best results come from removing failed material, deep cleaning, repairing defects, and re-sealing in thin coats under the right conditions.

1) Strip or mechanically remove loose/failed sealer

• Scrape and pressure wash to remove all loose/flaking areas.
• For heavy buildup, use a compatible sealer remover or a rotary floor scrubber with black pad.

2) Degrease and deep clean

• Apply a quality degreaser to oil spots; scrub and hot-water rinse until water no longer beads.
• Rinse the entire surface thoroughly and squeegee off standing water.

3) Repair cracks and defects

• Asphalt: fill cracks with rubberized crack filler; patch potholes; let cure.
• Concrete: use polymer-modified repair mortar; allow proper cure (see curing in different climates).

4) Dry completely

Allow 24-48 hours of dry weather. Surface and substrate must be dry (no dark damp areas).

5) Choose the right sealer and apply thin coats

• Stay with the same chemistry as the last successful coat or fully remove incompatible layers first.
• Stir, don’t shake. Apply two thin coats with a squeegee/brush (follow label spread rate).
• Respect cure times: foot traffic only after initial cure; vehicle after full cure.

Asphalt vs. Concrete: Product Tips

• Asphalt: coal tar and asphalt emulsion sealers are common; avoid mixing types without full removal.
• Concrete: use acrylic/penetrating (silane/siloxane) sealers; for decorative finishes, follow manufacturer systems strictly. See pouring in sections for long-term crack control.

Prevention Checklist (Next Time)

• Clean to bare, sound surface; remove oil until water does not bead.
• Apply in ideal weather: 15-27°C (60-80°F), no rain/wind, low humidity.
• Thin, even coats; never heavy. Respect spread rates and cure windows.
• Match sealer chemistry or remove old incompatible layers.
• Block off traffic until fully cured; avoid sprinklers and washing for a few days.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Sealing over damp substrate or after recent washing.
• Layering different products without full removal.
• Applying too thick to “save time” (traps solvents/moisture).
• Ignoring cracks and potholes before sealing.

FAQs

How long should a good seal last?

Typically 2-3 years for most residential drives with quality prep and product; harsh climates or heavy use may shorten that.

Can I seal over peeling areas?

No. Remove all loose material first. Sealing over failure guarantees more peeling.

What if I don’t know what sealer was used before?

Spot test for compatibility. If in doubt, remove old layers in affected zones and re-seal with a single system.